It didn't begin to change for me until near the end of the undergrad, when it became just another place where some friends lived. And then even more so a few years after that, when it went from day-trip distance to commuter distance. I'm no native, but I'm more familiar with the parts of the city that I frequent -- pretty much all of Midtown, as well as Union Square, NoMad, the West Village and Chinatown, plus Borough Park in Brooklyn -- than I am with the cities within a half-hour's driving distance of where I grew up.
That doesn't mean that it's not still a fun place to vacation.
It wasn't something planned out too far ahead of time, but it turned out that my friend A. from Florida was going to be vacationing in the city for half a week, so I did my usual thing and crashed with her in return for providing my charming company. By which I largely mean a drinking companion and a garbage disposal for whatever food she didn't eat. And we drank and ate at a lot of places.
I'm actually not really into aggregate review websites. I find them most useful for more service-related things, where what the most basic content of the experience is might be a question, for getting clarification about what you're really getting for your money. It can be so easy to get buried in other people's opinions, when there's so, so many. For restaurants (general expectation: I pay money and receive food to eat), I'm still more of a fan of the old-fashioned "Did someone I actually know go there? What did they say?" or "I'm standing outside of the place right now and I feel like I want to go in" approach. Or reading actual reviews -- you know, the ones that are more than three sentences long, whether they're in a newspaper or a magazine or a blog or wherever. Some nice comprehensive, considered thoughts about the experience from a person with presumably some amount of knowledge or at the very least, some sort of specific interest.
These things here? These aren't reviews. These are just me having opinions about things. Which I should probably do more often, as I do tend to Do Things on a semi-regular basis and often have opinions about them.
So here's a piece of new news on the internet: hotels in Manhattan are fucking expensive. We stayed at the Best Western Plus, Prospect Park, which was pretty great and also in Brooklyn. The location was very convenient, being literally on the same block as the 25th Street station on the R line. Which is slow if you're actually in a hurry to get anywhere, because it's a super local line with more stops than I knew existed, but it's pretty easy to transfer to something quicker.
The hotel is relatively new and pretty good value for NYC standards. By which I mean that the entire room plus the bathroom combined was smaller than the living room in my apartment, but it fit a bed, an armoire, a desk, two night stands and a dresser with a mini-fridge. The lobby featured an included continental breakfast in the morning, with Dannon Light & Fit yogurt, dry cereal, scrambled eggs, sausage, muffins, bagels, bread, juice, black tea and coffee available. The breakfast room itself was pretty cramped, so A. and I would grab food and bring it back up to the room.
They had a 24-hour fitness center in the basement, which featured an elliptical, a reclining bike, a treadmill and a weight machine, as well as a full-wall mirror. There was also an exercise ball bouncing around, though no free weights. The equipment seemed relatively new and functional. A couple of water fountains in the room, as well as a stack of towels -- though no equipment cleaning supplies. Also, probably due to the "24-hour" thing, the light in the room worked on a motion detector. The downside to this? Apparently, at least the elliptical was positioned outside of the range of the detector, so after ten minutes, I would be plunged into darkness.
In an otherwise empty basement.
Just a little bit creepy.
One thing that was also kind of weird was that on Monday morning, when I was heading back to the room from the fitness center, there was a localized loud beeping in the hotel. Almost like an alarm. But not quite. But close enough to be slightly worrying. I called the front desk, and they apologized for waking us up and said that they were just testing a system. I didn't bother telling them that they hadn't woken us up, but I personally found it more troubling that I hadn't been sure if the building had been on fire or not. One would think that "testing a system" that produced a repetitive mechanized beeping noise loud enough to be heard in the guest rooms and wake people up would be something that was perhaps deserving of some announcement (which I recognized might not have been practically possible) or at least performed at a different, less crowded time of today.
That's actually mostly skipping ahead, though. When we got in on Saturday night, A. and I just dropped our things in the room and then headed out to Williamsburg. My first trip to the fabled land of the hipsters! To whom I'm not sure if I'm related or not. It recently underwent some serious soul-searching when I received an e-mail from one of my trend/style lists telling me about some hot new restaurant, and my reaction was, "Oh, yeah, I heard about that place a month ago, I've been meaning to check it out." And then I hated myself.
It did turn out to be useful, though, when A. realized that she'd be able to make it to New York this summer, and I was able to come up with way too many places to eat. We hit Parish Hall for dinner that night. On the pricey side, especially if you're getting drinks as well, but good quality stuff for a nice night out. The atmosphere is a little hipster-minimalist, but if you get seated in the back, it's more like an actual restaurant with a traditional table set-up.
I was feeling mighty hungry, so I got the chilled corn soup (squash seed oil, blackberries, basil) and the duck (seared salt-aged duck breast and braised leg, carrot puree, summer squash, plum, granola), as well as a Winnie Palmer (Bourbon, black tea, lemon, Regan’s orange bitters, fresh mint). And also ate half of A.'s dinner. Portion-wise, you aren't going to come here to stuff yourself -- particularly if you're a big eater like I am -- but while I'm certainly not saying that you'll leave still hungry, it's definitely an instance of paying for quality rather than quantity. It was all quite good! The corn soup was delicious, the corn flavor extremely strong and punctuated nicely by the tang of the blackberries. I found it to be a touch on the salty side, but most food that I don't prepare myself tastes salty to me. Everything was fresh and delicious. I've never been a big fan of summer squash, but the vegetables that came with the duck were mouth-watering. The duck breast was presented simply and straightforwardly, but the duck leg was actually minced up and wrapped in a thin slice of summer squash, kind of like some cross between a spring roll and a sausage. Only squashier.
Recommended as a splurgier night out! The menu is apparently very seasonal, keeping things fresh, so I'd recommend checking it out if you plan on going. They also appear to participate in a variety of local food events, so you can keep your eyeballs peeled for that.
One thing about our trip to Parish Hall, though, was that they were out of the one dessert in which we had been interested. So we headed back up Bedford Avenue, having passed a number of places on our way down, just seeing what caught our fancy.
We ended up at Fabiane's Cafe and Pastry Shop [WARNING FOR EMBEDDED MUSIC], which turned out to be an excellent choice, despite how unfortunate their website is. It was heading on 11pm by the time we got there, an appealing little cafe that opened up to open-air street-side seating, and they were still doing table service. Which was a little slow and not particularly friendly, but that wasn't a big bother, since we were just getting casual dessert. I got the chocolate mousse and A. got the caramel cup, and again, I ate half of her order. Both of which were amazing. It was one of those "orgasmic dessert" sort of situations -- you know, stick the spoon in your mouth, have your eyes roll back into your head and make some sort of embarrassing noise. Again, not a cheap place, but so, so worth it.
The next morning, we were meeting our friends P. and M. to use a Groupon deal that we'd gotten for brunch at The Pan-American. I'd made reservations a few days ago, pretty much for right when the place opened, but we had a busy day planned out, so we wanted to get an early (for a Sunday) start.
So we got there and the place was locked up like Fort Knox, with a sign in the window from the city health services saying that the place was closed down for operating without a permit.
That was a surprise.
I've since gotten a refund (store credit) from Groupon.
Luckily, what was very nearby was The Public, which my friends whom we were meeting had been saying that we needed to attend someday. Well, no day like today, right? We all got the set price brunch: one entree, one brunch cocktail, coffee or tea. The value of that varies, as there's a pretty good range on the prices of the brunch entrees. But I'd call it a pretty good deal for most things.
Following my friends' recommendations, I went with the black pudding waffles with red wine poached pears and whipped foie gras butter, with a cocktail that was some sort of bourbon apricot iced tea and some jasmine green tea. You get a couple of sturdy waffles, maybe about five inches in diameter -- not huge but very rich, particularly with all of the butter. And the tea comes in a little individual pot that contains a couple of servings. Very much worth it. And also just a great atmosphere for spending a couple of hours gabbing away over brunch. We'd managed to get a street-side table, with the front windows all opened up on a beautiful summer day...
...though I was still the only one with a big hat. I've told them multiple times that we need to work on that.
A big hat also seemed appropriate for hitting up our next stop, the Metropolitan Museum of Art. We were only spending a couple hours there, so my plan was to hit the three special exhibitions in which I was most interested. You see, A., M. and I all have very different museum speeds. A. walks through almost without stopping. I like to read all of the accompanying material and take a few minutes to contemplate each object. M. is somewhere in the middle.
So we decided that it was best for our friendship to just agree to meet in the gift shop at a pre-established time.
My hits for the afternoon were Designing Nature: The Rinpa Aesthetic in Japanese Art, The Printed Image in China, 8th-21st Century (through 7/29) and Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations (through 8/19). All were wins, in my book. I've always liked the Asian Art wing at the Met as it is, and both the Rinpa and the Printed Image provided amazing looks at specific practices. It's difficult to describe them in any sort of decent way without finding myself facing the impossible task of describing the entire exhibitions, so I will simply state my pleasure at viewing them. The Printed Image, especially, was astoundingly extensive and pretty mind-blowing in the history that it contained.
As for Schiaparelli and Prada, I liked it a lot better than 2010's American Woman: Fashioning A National Identity. The latter had felt like a very superficial overview to me, more of a publicity draw than something actually informative or insightful. In contrast, I found the current fashion exhibit to be accessible but also interesting, creative and educational. It featured a number of short videos of imagined conversations between the two designers (with an actor playing Schiaparelli, her words drawn from Schiaparelli's own) along with displays that compared and contracted their work in different design contexts. Yes, the exhibit was packed, unpleasantly so at some junctures; yes, it emptied right into a mini-gift shop. Don't care. It was good stuff.
I'm not sure if this is an always thing, but there was a good amount of sale merchandise in the gift shop. I struck gold and found a coffee table book of Hiroshige's One Hundred Famous Views of Edo for $18 -- normal price, $85. Japanese print art has long been a love of mine, so I am seriously considering getting a real coffee table so that I have a proper place to display it. I also picked up a discounted 2013 calendar of the Schiaparelli/Prada exhibit. This is a big win for me, as I usually don't get calendars until either about a quarter into the next year when they're heavily discounted or when I get the free academic wall calendar from my undergraduate alma mater in the mail. I am moving up in the world.
Our plan was to head to our favorite bar that night, but since it's a lounge that isn't really a place for getting real food, we stopped at BonChon Midtown first -- not the Koreatown one, the one up between 50th and 51st. The Koreatown BonChon was what had introduced me, late in life, to the wonder that is Korean fried chicken (I'd been a devotee of American fried chicken for as long as I can remember), and we'd tried the Midtown location on a Groupon once. In contrast to the two-story, two-steps-above-fast-food type place in Koreatown, the Midtown location feels like your average tiny Hell's Kitchen restaurant -- maybe about twice the size of my living room, half of which is taken up by a bar, a sleek and mod aesthetic. Three flat-screen televisions grace the wall, actually relieving you of the awkward situation where you know that the person sitting across from you is half-distracted by the television behind you, but that's okay in this case because you're half-distracted by the television behind them, which is playing the same channel.
As for the food, it's cooked to order, piping-hot fresh and completely delicious. I ordered a small side salad so that I would be eating something other than fried meat, and it was only a little bit smaller than some other places' entree-sized salads. M. and I split a fried chicken combo with the soy garlic glaze, and I also at most of A.'s Asian pear salad with grilled chicken, as well as one of M.'s delicious crispy friend potstickers. And a gingerman cocktail, which is basically bourbon plus ginger plus more alcohol and which was just a strong as the last time I got it.
But mostly, it was about the chicken. I might have eaten a lot of it. Just maybe.
We met up with P. again at The Dove Parlour, where we're about as regular as people who live out of town (or regularly congregate with said out-of-towners) can be at a bar and where it's easy to spend a huge amount of money. Their happy hour is totally worth it, bringing most of their specialty cocktails down to $7. I had my stand-by, an Olympia (you guessed it: more bourbon). P. and I split a cheese tier, getting the brie, manchego, sottocenere, cabra romero and my sorrow at having developed an allergy to almonds. And I finished things off with my also usual, some traditionally prepared absinthe, which is what will really kill you, not because of the alcohol but because it costs $15 for a teeny-tiny glass and is also delicious and okay fine, it can get you hammered.
But more to the point, we hung out here for about three hours. It being a Sunday night, the place was pretty much ours, too, for much of the time. The background music got a little loud -- and a little weird -- at some points, but I find it to be a great hang-out bar. Dimly lit, with Gilded Age decor, it's a place to drink and talk, without any bar games or televisions. I've definitely had some of my favorite evenings there.
On Monday, A. and I visited the Museum of the City of New York. It's a cute little place! Emphasis on "little." It's a two-story building, with four one-room exhibitions, a 20-minute video presentation and a couple mini-exhibits. As long as you're not expecting anything huge, though, I would recommend it. The two special exhibitions currently running are well put-together: one about banks and another about activism, both in the context of, of course, their history in New York City.
A. then proceeded to make me a very happy woman by humoring my quest to get lunch from the Okadaman food truck, which is located at 48th Street between Park and Lex. I got myself a seafood okonomiyaki and a very blissed-out expression. It was very near the end of their lunch hours, so it wasn't very warm, but it was still entirely delicious. At $8.50 per okonomiyaki, it's a little on the pricey side, but it is dense and delicious. With the seafood option, mine had squid rather than pork, and it was perfectly tender. And I can speak from experience and say that okonomiyaki is fucking work-intensive.
We then got A. some food at St. Andrews, another stand-by of mine if I need a solid bite in Times Square. A Scottish bar, save for the haggis, the food isn't the most adventurous, but it's very good. Because I have to eat everywhere, apparently, I just got a cock-a-leekie soup, which turned out to be like chicken noodle soup without the noodles, which is actually really, really good.
After that, we headed back uptown to meet M. at Alice's Tea Cup: Chapter II. M. got tea and a savory scone; A. got tea, grilled cheese and a cookie plate; and I got tea and the golden afternoon beet salad. Both of my items were good -- the cholestea was green tea with ginseng and a couple other things, and it had a pleasantly spicy, herbal taste to it. The beet salad is actually a warm chopped beet salad with orzo over mixed greens. While certainly not a meal I regret -- and their tea menu is impressively extensive -- it's probably not somewhere to which I'll be rushing back. The atmosphere is probably part of it for me -- it's pretty much the definition of "twee," which isn't quite my bag. And while the food was good, it wasn't as excellent as some more substantial plates that I could get elsewhere for a comparable price.
The next day, A. took off back to Florida, so I hit up my college-mate J., who is in her last month or so in the West Village before heading back upstate. It turns out that the two of us can talk a lot: YA literature, the mechanics of moving, the New York City educational system, undergrad nostalgia. I abandoned her for a short while to hit up NY Dosas, a food cart on the southeast side of Washington Square Park, where I got the special pondicherry (a lentil/rice crepe containing vegetables and potato). I've heard from P. that the dosa guy has increased his prices over the past few years as he's gotten famous, but it's still within reasonable foodcart-but-more-than-a-hotdog-stand range. It even felt healthy to eat -- the vegetables are fresh, pretty much a salad. For one of my appetite, it's not the most filling, but I was planning for a big meal that night, so it actually worked out perfectly.
In any case, I returned to J.'s place, and we gabbed more before she took me to David's Tea on Bleecker, which is apparently a huge Canadian chain and is kind of amazing. The tea selection is extensive and creative, and the staff was so friendly and enthusiastic. I got a cup of hot Gyokuro Yamishiro, a straight green tea. It brewed to a beautiful bright green color but the flavor was actually quite smooth, not nearly as grassy as some green teas that I've had. There was a small seating area in the back, so J. and I took over that for a long while, with me getting a refill of hot water for a second steeping.
It began getting busier once people began getting out of work, so we relinquished our seats and returned to her apartment, to where her husband also soon returned after a day of the bar exam. We all got rather engrossed in the 1990s at that point, but I soon had to leave for the final stop on my epic adventure.
That stop was meeting P. at Sparks Steak House, to which we'd bought a killer Groupon a while back, which was basically almost 50% off a meal for two. The deal had, in fact, been advertised as dinner for two, but in actuality, it was a gift card that was valued at what dinner for two was approximated to cost, though it could be spent however you liked. I'd made a reservation, but apparently that doesn't guarantee you to have a table ready right when you arrive -- somewhat understandable, as the place was packed and is apparently like that everyday, all the time. It worked out in the end, as P. had a delay, and we ended up being seated not more than five minutes after she arrived.
And then dinner. Oh, dinner. Given that we are classy ladies of the highest caliber, that could mean only two things: bourbon and medium-rare sirloin.
We each got a Manhattan with Maker's Mark, which were delicious and stunningly strong and amazing. After asking our server about the size of the appetizers and being told they were shareable, we decided to split a lump crab meat cocktail. He was absolutely right: totally shareable. And they even brought it out to us individually plated, which was characteristic of the wonderful service we received the entire night.
For the main course, we got the creamed spinach and mushrooms to share as sides to go with each of our prime sirloin strip steaks. First of all, the creamed spinach and mushrooms were both delicious, with the spinach being fresh and rich and the mushrooms being immensely buttery.
But the meat.
Oh, the meat.
Seared beautifully on the outside, with that salty-sweet char, the medium-rare was actually closer to the rare side of things, which is perfection in my book. Just a giant chunk of tender (though not tenderized) meat. I ate the whole fucking thing. And I'm not exaggerating when I say that it was probably about half the size of my head.
In an act of understated wizardry, our server changed our tablecloth between the meal and dessert, for which we ordered raspberries with whipped cream to split. Again, it was plated individually for us, and the portion size was great. The choice itself was also wonderful -- the delicate tartness of the raspberries was a perfect finisher for the grand sweeping gesture of the meat.
Have I mentioned the meat?
And then P. and I had been at dinner for almost three hours, and it was Good.
Dagnabbit, I am jealous of myself right now.
Also, hungry.
Time to remedy that.